Domaine Bruno Clair’s origins are Domaine Clair-Daü, one of the most celebrated domaines in Burgundy from the 1950s to the early 1970s.The domaine is 23 hectares of, well, everything: grand crus, values, rosé, geeky village level, geeky premier crus, and for a predominantly red wine estate, even some Corton-Charlemagne. There is some brilliant genetic material here too as it was from Bruno’s father (as well as from Ponsot) that the Dijon University got many of the cutting that are at the origin of today’s clones. The wines are about delicately extracted fruit on the front palate, backed by serious structure on the mid-palate. If there is one domaine in the Côte de Nuits poised to become (or re-become) a planetary rock star, given the holdings and the talent here, it is this one.